Friday, December 31, 2010

IAMS AND EUKANUBA BACK IN STOCK

Iams and Eukanuba Back In Stock
By: WCPS


Some Iams and Eukanuba brands of dry dog food were taken off the market in July of 2010 as one of their factories was being retooled and revamped. Iams suspended its operations at the facility in order to look at all of their processes and procedures and ensure that they were doing everything possible to consistently meet their high quality standards.

The retooling of the machinery was a part of Iams and Eukanuba's “Good Manufacturing Principles.” GMPs are basically a series of tests that determine the quality of a product. They also define the controls that are used in the manufacturing process as well as the instructions that should be followed. GMPs also employ intense record-keeping and an elaborate system that monitors all batches of products and their eventual locations of distribution.

In July, Iams released the following statement:
Quality is the cornerstone of our business at The Iams Company, from the high standards we put on ensuring the quality and safety of our ingredients to our innovative formulas that enhance the lives of dogs and cats. We go above and beyond typical pet food quality assurance practices to make sure that our nutrition is healthy and safe for pets. One example is that the Premium foods from The Iams Company are fixed-formula foods as opposed to least-cost formulas. Fixed formulas have a "stable ingredient profile." That means the recipes don’t fluctuate with the cost of the ingredients and the proportions of those ingredients remain the same regardless of cost. The nutritional benefit of a fixed formula is consistency. Every time you purchase a bag of Iams, the high-quality ingredients and the proportion of those ingredients will be the same. We go even further to assure the quality by pulling product samples throughout the manufacturing process for complete nutritional analysis of each batch of food produced.


Iams and Eukanuba dog foods are the result of years and years of research and innovation. Nutrition, protein and a strong consideration for the dietary requirements of dogs has led to their superior products. Their philosophy that a proper diet for pets can bring about increased immunity, proper weight maintenence, and healthy digestion are what has propelled these companies in the past and will continue to do so.

Iams and Eukanuba's plant retooling is now over and we are proud to be stocking their dry foods once again here at  West Coast Pet Supply.

Click here to see our entire line of Iams dog food products

Click here to see our entire line of Eukanuba dog food products

WHOLESOME HIDE ALL NATURAL DOG CHEWS


Wholesome Hide All Natural Dog Chews
By: WCPS

Wholesome Hide all natural rawhide chews are made in the USA. They are hand-tied and 100% natural. Natural processing means no potentially harmful chemical residue. Wholesome Hide rawhide chews are made from the freshest, thickest beef hides available in the USA. Also, to this day they are the only rawhide treat to be produced entirely in the USA as well. Because they are made in the USA it can be guaranteed that Wholesome Rawhide treats aren't processed with harsh, potentially dangerous chemicals.
Wholesome Hide products also contain the “Collagen Flavor Layer” of  the rawhide which remains intact because of Wholesome Hide's superior processing. The hides are transported via refrigerated truck, washed clean with fresh water and hand cut. Wholesome Hide Rawhide Chews are a natural golden color versus other chews that are died white with titanium dioxide (a chemical used in white paint) to obscure discolorations brought about by spoilage.
West Coast Pet Supply stocks several different Wholesome Hide products. West Coast Pet Supply customers can take 10% off of the following products if purchased by the case:
  • The Wholesome Hide Bacon in a Blanket Rawhide Retriever Roll This product features bacon-flavored rawhide wrapped in regular rawhide.
  • The Donut Shaped Rawhide that is longer lasting than other brands of rawhide.
  • Wholesome hide also features 6 sizes of flat knotted bones for your dog to chew on.
  • The Wholesome Hide Inside Out Rawhide Retriever Rolls which come in 3 different sizes.
  • The Wholesome Hide Rawhide Twists. Wholesome Hide Rawhide Twists come 10 to a pack
Wholesome Hide all natural chews are the perfect treat for your dog to really work on.  The way that this product is processed before getting to your dog is the healthiest method on the market.

Friday, December 17, 2010

EARTHBATH PET SHAMPOO

Earthbath Pet Shampoo
By: WCPS


Earthbath is the perfect shampoo for your dog or cat. Manufactured in California, it is the official shampoo of the San Francisco Zoo. Earthbath which has been around since 1995 was founded on two principles: the love of pets and the environment. When it comes to shampooing your dog's or cat's coat, probably one of the worst things that you could do to it is use a human-grade shampoo. When it is time to shampoo your pet, you should use the best product available. Earthbath's shampoos, spritzes and conditioners are specially-made for sensitive pets and environmentally conscious pet owners with a focus on soothing itches, repelling fleas and enjoyable scents.

It may be hard to believe, but your dogs and cats have skin that is more sensitive than a baby's. Human-grade shampoos and soaps can dry a pet's skin out, which could potentially cause any number of issues such as itching, rashes, and dandruff. Human-grade soaps and shampoos can also stay in your dog's coat, providing a continual irritation. Soap is also prone to washing off or neutralizing any sort of anti-flea product you may have applied.

Earthbath shampoos are the perfect solution for bathing your pet. Earthbath recommends that you don't bathe your pet more than twice a week. Earthbath shampoos don't contain parabens (cosmetic preservatives), harsh soaps, artificial colors, artificial fragrances, phosphates, or toxins.  Earthbath is natural and biodegradable. This means that when you rinse it off of your dog, it will decompose and not leave an imperishable residue .Earthbath is also hypoallergenic. It is mild and won't cause an allergic reaction.

If your pet already has itchy, dry skin, West Coast Pet Supply stocks Earthbath's Oatmeal and Aloe Shampoo which is the best way to revitalize, moisturize and condition the skin. If your pet has hot spots (isolated, moist, itchy, and painful areas) we also stock the Tea Tree and Aloe Shampoo which is a good option because it is both anti-bacterial and anti-fungal.

West Coast Pet Supply stocks Earthbath Totally Natural Creme Rinse and Conditioner, a detangler that also enriches and revives your pet's coat while being extra careful with your pet's skin. Used in conjunction with Earthbath shampoos, your pet's coat will smell fresh and feel healthy and luxurious. The creme rinse is safe for both cats and dogs.

We also stock Earthbath's Orange Peel Oil shampoo, which is made from real oranges, and is a natural flea repellant. his shampoo is suggested for dogs only, as it could be too intense for a cat's skin. Sometimes a trip to the beach, park or a rainy day in the mud force a pet owner to shampoo their dog sooner than the standard. When this happens, anti-flea applications can be threatened. Earthbath is compatible with flea applications like Frontline, Advantage and K9 Advantix, it is suggested that you wait for 48 hours before bathing them after the initial application though. Your dog will be smelling good and the products in his coat will be multi-tasking.

If you don't bathe your dog regularly, Earthbath's spritzes will end that “doggie smell” for you. A suggested spritz is the Eucalyptus and Peppermint spritz, which uses peppermint oil, a natural flea repellent. Earthbath spritzes will revitalize, moisturize and condition your dog's skin and coat. Spritzes are for dogs only, as cats will immediately lick and clean it off of their fur.

If you are going to bathe your cat or dog, you should do it right. You should use the shampoos, conditioners and spritzes that respect your pet's fur and nurture it. Earthbath has a great-smelling line of shampoos, made in with your pet and the environment in mind.


CITRONELLA AND ALL OF ITS USES


Citronella and All of Its Uses
By: Peter Demmon


Citronella is a perennial lemongrass, meaning that it lasts three seasons or more. Citronella comes in two forms, Cymbopogon nardus and Cymbopogon winterianus. While some use citronella as an ornamental grass in their yard, its oil has many, many uses both unverified and verified. The general assessment of citronella is positive. The only harm that seems to come from citronella is a mild rash for those allergic to it. Other than that, the praise for this lemongrass is astonishing. Citronella is popular with aromatherapists, it is also useful as an antiseptic, an insect repellant, a fragrance, a detergent, as food seasoning, and as a bark suppressant spray in some dog collars.
Citronella has beneficial qualities that make it useful to aromatherapists. One of the chief aromatherapy claims is that citronella is a cicatrisant. This means that it has the power to cicatrize or work as a decent healing agent and help with the forming of scar-tissue. Aromatherapists also claim that citronella is a great diuretic (a substance that increases urine output), or even an emmenagogue (something that stimulates menstrual flow). It can also be used as a bactericidal antispeptic (meaning that it kills germs and is safe for humans). There are even some unproven claims that citronella can be used to treat colds, fevers, coughs and the flu. It is even used by some to treat migraine headaches and neuralgia (pain from a malfunctioning nerve). It is also said that citronella softens the skin. It has even been used as a vermifuge, which is a treatment for getting rid of intestinal parasites.
Citronella is also a widely respected insect repellant. citronella has a documented history of being able to specifically repel mosquitoes. It is also a successful agent that can be used against ants, moths, ticks, and fleas. Studies have shown that citronella can protect cardboard from insect infestations as well. In some cases the protection is 50% more than other food-packaging insect repellents. The residue of a citronella treatment to a cardboard box can last for 16 weeks or more.
Citronella can also be found in some specialty soaps and detergents. It is commonly used as a fragrance oil and as a perfume additive. It is mostly employed with candle-making. If you smell a lemony candle, there is a good chance that you are smelling some citronella. citronella grass is also used in many Vietnamese recipes as a seasoning.
One of the most interesting uses of citronella is that it's in specially-made dog collars for bark suppression. Dogs don't appreciate the smell of citronella. It isn't harmful to them, but they would rather smell something else. There are now several dog collars on the market that employ citronella as their anti-barking agent. This is a positive turn in the bark-suppression collar industry. The original standards have been shock collars and collars that emit high frequency sounds to get zealously barking dogs under control. citronella spray collars work like this: There is a microphone on the collar, and when the dog barks, a shot of citronella oil is sprayed from below the dog's jaw to leave a lingering cloud before the dog's face. This is that three-pronged sensation attack. The dog hears the hiss of the citronella spray, he smells it, and he sees it. All of this is enough to get him in an uncomfortable enough space that he will reconsider unnecessary barking in the future.
For a decorative grass that smells lemony when crushed in one's hands, citronella has a plethora of uses. The oil from citronella grass is becoming more and more relevant to our daily lives. Its use for aromatherapists, those who want to be safe from mosquitoes, as a soap or detergent, and people training their dogs to not bark unnecessarily. citronella's uses are paramount, and as time passes who knows what will be next for the perennial lemongrass?

Tuesday, December 14, 2010

EVO DOG FOOD



Evo Dog Food
by: WCPS


Evo Dog Foods have taken the time to consider and reproduce the ancestral diets of dogs. The idea is to maintain the ancestral diet and keep it up to date with modern nutrition. Evo dog food is formulated to be similar to the diet of prey. It is also a convenient, complete, and balanced supplement to a raw feeding program. Evo's dog foods are high in protein, low in carbohydrates and grain free.


 If your dog is food sensitive, it might be worthwhile to try Evo.


EVANGER'S DOG FOOD




Evanger's Dog Food
By: WCPS


Founded on the belief that a dog's health and the health of their offspring are dependent on wholesome, nutritious dog food without any additives or preservatives, Evanger's has been in the dog food business for over 70 years. Fred Evanger, the founder of Evanger's raised champion Great Danes. He built his dog food canning factory at his kennels.  Evanger's dedication to canine health lives on with the company's desire to make innovative new dog foods made with natural product and no preservatives or salt added. 

If you dig around on the Evanger's Dog Food Website you will find the history of this company and several fascinating press releases.  One press release speaks of Evanger's donating meals to puppies rescued from a puppy mill.  Another chronicles the Evanger's company from 1935 to present and the way it has adjusted with the times and changed hands. There is even an article in there about how Evanger's produces some kosher foods for dogs.  All the articles are fascinating, and all of them are inspiring as well.

Friday, December 10, 2010

WORKING WITH YOUR DOG'S FOOD ALLERGY



Working With Your Dog's Food Allergy
By: Peter Demmon


There are many signs that your dog could have a food allergy. The list is almost endless, but the main culprits are itchy skin, a dull and/or frizzy coat, inflamed ears, excessive licking of certain areas (paws for example), lethargy, diarrhea (even projectile stools), blood, mucous or both in the stool, gas and possibly even vomiting. These, coupled with horror stories of owners coming home from work to find their living rooms sprayed with sick-dog diarrhea can all be symptoms of dog food allergies. Some symptoms can be a lot more dangerous, like seizures or negative behavior changes. When dealing with your dog's food allergies you need to understand, change and monitor the dog's diet and reactions.

A dog owner should keep in mind that most reputable dog foods don't contain corn, soy or wheat. Another part of the understanding of a dog's allergies is to comprehend the grains used to make dog food. If your dog's food does contain any of those “filler grains” it might be wise to continue looking for a different food. Corn, soy and wheat are grains that pet food companies fortify their food with because they are relatively cheap products. But not only that, these three grains are regular allergy culprits.

If you have changed your dog's food in the recent past, this is a telltale reason as to why your dog may be acting sick. A general rule of thumb when changing a dog's diet is to gradually introduce new food into his diet. 25% percent at a time over the period of ten days. This basically breaks down to a 25% increase in the new food and a 25% decrease in the old food every 2 to 3 days. Some dogs adjust well, and some dogs need a more gradual shift. The main point here is that sometimes what looks like an allergic reaction is simply your dog having an upset stomach while re-calibrating his intestines to a different diet.

In order to get your dog back on track if he is indeed suffering from a food allergy is to completely monitor his food intake. This means a “reloading” of his entire diet. Tackling your dog's food allergy starts with changing what your dog consumes while assessing what he has been consuming. This also means that there can be no cheating and that the diet needs to be strict. Look for hypoallergenic foods. Follow the above principle of a 25% shift in food every few days. Things get complicated at this point however, because the word, “hypoallergenic” don't necessarily mean that your dog won't be allergic to the food. An example of this is lamb. Lamb is what used to be considered as the “ultimate” hypoallergenic meat. Lamb allergies while not common, are possible as well. So whatever exclusive diet you decide upon for your dog it should fit whatever your dog works with. This could take some trial and error, or it could work nicely and immediately.

Corn, soy and wheat may not be the best grains to fortify your dog's diet with, but brown rice and potatoes are both starches that receive more respect, and have a better track record as far as dog allergies go. Let's assume that you choose a chicken and rice diet. You could prepare the chicken and boil the rice. This way you will know what your dog is consuming, how it was prepared, etc, etc. Hopefully, you will notice an immediate improvement. Most people queried on this subject for this article were very secure with the fact that the determination of a food allergy is started with home cooking your dog's meals. What this betrays is a general mistrust in store-bought dog food. But we also have to be realistic here, some of us simply don't have the time or patience to boil copious amounts of chicken breasts and brown rice. If that is indeed your case, then another method is to scrutinize the dog food that is on the market and find that which seems the simplest, healthiest, and most suited for your dog.

Dog food allergies are unpredictable, much like human allergies. Some people are born drinking milk. They drink it through their adolescence and then as adults, they develop a lactose intolerance. Dogs are similar in the fact that they might eat the same thing their entire life and then suddenly a latent allergy kicks in.

As I researched this article, I found that the most heartening fact is that if your dog isn't allergic to the food that you settle on, the positive change can be immediate. When working with your dog's food allergies you need to comprehend, adjust and watch your dog's demeanor as well as his food. A dog is a resilient creature, and when you find the proper diet for your pet, he will bounce back quickly. 

FRISKIES CANNED CAT FOOD



Friskies Canned Cat Food
By: WCPS


You asked and we listened.  The request was for Friskies canned cat food, and now we stock it in our cat food aisle here at the warehouse.
Friskies has a long history.   Originally, Friskies was a dog food brand.  It was converted and first sold as a cat food in 1956 by the Carnation Company.  Carnation and Friskies were purchased by Nestle in 1985.  Nestle Purina Petcare continues to bring Friskies to cat owners worldwide, with a staggering selection of varieties. 

Here at West Coast Pet Supply, we are currently stocking several different choices.  With individual cans priced at 49 cents, any regular Friskies Canned Cat Food customer is going to recognize the savings being offered. 

To name a few of the various product lines, we have Classic Paté, Prime Filets, and Meaty Bits.  Those product lines feature the beef, chicken, tuna, salmon, liver, and many, many other options.

One last interesting fact about the Friskies canned cat food product line is that the cans are made with actual aluminum.  Recycling aluminum cans saves 95 percent of the energy used to make aluminum cans from virgin materials.  This means that the cans can be recycled again and again, infinitely.  Visit the Friskies website at www.friskies.com for more details about their aluminum cans.
Friskies canned cat foods are a welcome addition to our warehouse.  Continue to check our online Friskies selection regularly, because there will be several more options available for online purchases in the coming weeks.


Check out our Friskies Canned Food Selection at West Coast Pet Supply 

Thursday, December 9, 2010

PREMIER'S SPRAYSENSE ANTI-BARK COLLARS






Premier's SpraySense Anti-Bark Collars
By: Peter Demmon


If your dog barks uncontrollably and is in need of some bark suppression training, Premier's SpraySense Anti-Bark Collar is the product you are looking for. The traditional method of a shock-collar or a high-pitched whistle-collar are all things of the past. Premier's SpraySense Anti-Bark Spray Collar uses a citronella spray in order to curb your dog's bad habit.

Citronella is in reality an lemony-smelling oil that is used for perfumes, soaps, as a pesticide (mosquito repellant) and now as an anti-barking measure. Within the collars the method is simple: when a dog barks, the microphone in the collar picks up the disturbance and a spray of citronella is shot out from the collar. This is aimed to disperse before the dog's face. Dogs don't appreciate the smell and will ultimately change their barking behavior in order to avoid it. There are several sense factors involved with this and not just the smell that the dogs don't appreciate. There is a hiss that happens when the citronella is released. This is a distraction for the dog. The dog will also see the spray as well as smell it. Ultimately, this is a form of discipline that will teach the dog not to bark unnecessarily.

This is a product that works for dogs at any life-stage, including puppies. Clinical studies have shown that repeated exposure to citronella is something that will discourage dogs from barking. Citronella is harmless, and if the pet owner doesn't appreciate the citrus smell, there is also a scentless solution available as well. Each spray from the collar contains less than 10% citronella oil, so a pet owner doesn't need to worry about a heavy dose of the product for each bark.

The harmless interruption of a dog's bad habit with a citronella spray is the perfect disciplinary solution to a potentially complex problem. The Premier website cites Dr. Debra Horwitz who is a board certified veterinary behaviorist as saying that “Barking is a serious problem and one of the top reasons that dogs are surrendered to shelters. The SpraySense Anti-Bark Collar is an extremely effective tool for owners to regain a quiet environment. I'd recommend it to anyone who's frustrated with nuisance barking. It allows owners to interrupt barking and intervene to teach quiet behaviors.”

A dog's barking habit can be changed, and it doesn't have to be a painful shift for the pet. With Premier's SpraySense Anti-Bark Collar, the, “citronella solution” is the easiest, most painless way to get your dog's barking under control.


THE VALUE OF A SOFT CRATE FOR YOUR DOG


The Value of a Soft Crate for Your Dog
By: Peter Demmon

Some feel that dogs are den animals. This means that they function well in and would prefer to be in small areas, if in the wild. This notion is bolstered by the fact that dogs like to sleep under tables, chairs, behind sofas, etc. The crate that you train your dog to stay in should be your dog's "den." The crate should be his hangout spot. Dog's are social creatures and they want to be a part of the family, so the crate should be somewhere in the house where the humans congregate, like the kitchen or the living room.

Having a crate for your dog to hang out in is a good thing. Your dog should have a "safe space" to go to in the house. Crates are good for housebreaking as well. Introducing a crate to your dog will potentially generate a place where your pet can ultimately spend his nights. While some argue that metal/hard plastic crates are the only way to go, soft crates are also good because they are easy to assemble and disassemble, lightweight, and great for traveling.

Some dog owners are absolutist about the type of crate that one should use with their dog. The argument that metal/hard plastic crates are easier to clean than soft crates when housebreaking a dog seem to rank the highest. Another complaint that metal/hard plastic crate owners make is that a dog can chew their way out of a soft crate, or roll around in it like a hamster in a hamster ball. These assertions are all valid, yet they primarily have to do with the temperament of the dog. In my research for this article, the only argument against soft crates that makes any absolute sense was the fact that if a dog is in a car accident while in a soft crate, he will take more damage than in a hard crate.

Soft crates are easy to assemble and disassemble. This makes it easy to take the crate with the family for a day at the beach, or for an extended stay at the park. Because they are so easily collapsible, soft crates can help your dog to be more a part of your social life. You could even take your pet to a friend's house, and bringing the soft crate along wouldn't be that much of a chore. If your dog has been trained to spend his relaxation time in a crate, he will enjoy seeing it wherever it pops up.

Soft crates are also lightweight. They can be moved around by just about anyone in the household. As previously mentioned, this could be a problem if your dog learns how to walk into the walls within the crate and roll it about the house. However, the fact that it can be easily picked up and moved when cleaning the house or scooted out of the sun if out in the yard demonstrate how convenient it really is.

Soft crates are also great for traveling. Traveling can be a burden on everyone in the family, and that goes for the dog as well (assuming that you travel with him from time to time!). When your family is bogged down with luggage, a metal/heavy plastic crate can be an added difficulty. Being able to easily assemble and disassemble your dog's soft crate at all of the stops on your destination is really what the soft crate is built for. If you are in and out of hotel rooms, or stopping at rest areas during a cross-country trip, a soft crate is a wonderful, familiar solution for your dog.

A familiar place where your dog can go is a great thing. If you are potty training your dog, the crate can also be useful. A dog needs his own space, and having him learn to sleep in a crate at night rather than on foot of your bed might ease the separation anxiety that he will experience in the morning when you have to go to work. Some dog owners feel that hard plastic or metal crates are the best way to crate a dog. However, the value of soft crates is demonstrated with their ease of assembly, their weight, and how much easier they can make the process of traveling with your pet.

If you are looking for a soft dog crates is good to find one that fits the size of your dog. If it is too big, your dog might make the mistake of using a corner of it for his bathroom. At West Coast Pet Supply we have all of the products you need to keep you and your pet healthy and content.

Check out our soft crates at West Coast Pet Supply

Wednesday, December 8, 2010

THE BEST PET FOOD STORAGE

The Best Pet Food Storage
By: Peter Demmon


Pet food is something that is usually purchased in bulk. After the bag has been opened and a portion has been served, what is one to do with the unused product? There are several factors to consider. While it may seem like a no-brainer, a pet-owner needs to consider their pet food storage options. Possibly the most important factor is that insects, rodents or even your dog could get back into the unsecured bag of food when you aren't looking. There are lots of different solutions to this potential problem. Excess pet food can be stored in a dog feeder, a wall-mounted dispenser, or in some storage bins.

Pet food storage is something that all dog and cat owners have to consider. Even if you aren't worried about other critters getting onto the pet food, it will still eventually go stale unless it is kept in something air-tight. The food needs to be securely stowed somewhere dry that is out of the sunlight.

One solution for this is to load all of the food into a dog feeder. That way the food is always more or less, “in place.” If a dog feeder is what you have in mind, be sure that you get one that serves out specific portions and not one that just constantly unloads. There are dog feeders on the market with portion control devices on them. The benefit of this type of storage is obvious. You only have to deal with the bulk amount of food once.

Another example is solution is a wall-mounted dog food dispenser. It mounts to the wall and will hold 40 lbs of food. The Bergan model of the mounted food dispenser is a good example of this type of dog food storage. At a distance, it doesn't look like it can or will actually hold 40 lbs. It holds the product well and food can be dispensed from the bottom, in serving sizes determined by you.

The simplest of solutions is to use a plastic container. Most pet owners would agree that the container needs to be stronger than just, “kitchen-grade.” There are pet food storage containers for most volumes. They tend to start at the 5 lb range and work their way to the top. The Bergan Stack N Store Dog Food Storage bin actually gets to a holding size of a whopping 79 lbs. This is the type of storage that you could consider for your garage. All that is needed is a scoop.

Excess pet food stores well in a dog feeder, a wall-mounted dispenser, or in storage bins. There are other methods for keeping your pet food safe, but the main issue is containing all of the product. 



Friday, December 3, 2010

KEEPING RODENTS OUT OF PET FOOD



Keeping Rodents Out of Pet Food
By: Andrew Massaro

Mice and rats are the bane of rural and urban residents across America. Pet owners find that they are especially prone to the attentions of these vexing vermin, as pet food that is not immediately consumed will become an instant food source for unwanted guests. Also, improper pet food storage can turn your supply of expensive pet food into a all-night mouse buffet. Here are some tips for keeping pet food secure from rats and mice.

First, remember that rodents can chew through just about anything, given time. The word "rodent" itself is from the Latin word meaning "to gnaw", and anything softer than metal will not keep out a dedicated rat indefinitely. Ideally, you want to keep rats and mice from knowing that there is food in the container to begin with. Try to find the tightest-sealing container possible, one that will not allow the scent of food to escape and attract pests. If you have a main storage bin from which you re-supply infrequently, you might consider plastic-wrapping the edge of the lid, which will also help keep the food fresher and spoil less quickly.

Also, remember that for all their agility and cleverness, rodents can't walk on the ceiling. A sturdily-fixed hook in the ceiling can be used to hang up a container of food, and as long as there are no ropes or lines running from the ground to the container, it should be safe from rodent predation. Since removing a lid may be difficult with such a set-up, this works better with the type of pet food storage container that have a swinging door.

As a pet owner, if you have a rodent problem, you should avoid using traps and poisons. Unless you are 100% certain your pets will never come into contact with the traps, poison, or any vermin killed by poison, using these methods of pest control puts your pets at risk. By removing food sources from rodents, you'll see that they quickly move on to greener pastures.

When storing your pet food you should always go with a quality pet food storage containers. These storage containers are designed to keep your pet's food fresh and tasty and to keep other animals, both wild and domestic, out of the food. The quality of the dog food storage and cat food storage containers make all the difference.

The Vittles Vault Pet Food Container is Available at West Coast Pet Supply

KEEPING ANTS OUT OF YOUR PET'S FOOD


Keeping Ants Out of Your Pet's Food
By: Andrew Massaro

Ants are, along with humans, one of the most successful lifeforms to ever walk the face of the planet. Maybe that's why we don't get along. Ants can be a real terror for pet owners, as the expensive food we buy for our dogs often winds up feeding a voracious ant colony. Here are a few easy ways to protect your food from ant attacks using common household products.

Firstly, for all their persistence and tenacity, water is a more or less foolproof barrier to ants. One of the easiest ways to protect food from ants is to place the container in a shallow pan filled with water. If you don't have a pan large enough for this purpose, the lid to a large Rubbermaid container can work well. Or, place the container on a stand or table, with each leg standing in a cup of water.

Also, ants have great difficulty crossing extremely fine powder. It clings to their feet and antennae, irritating and discouraging them. A wide variety of materials can be used for this purpose- the most readily available is talcum, or baby powder. If this is not effective, you can use diatomaceous earth (available at garden supply stores), which also has a natural, non-toxic insecticidal effect. However, if you use this method, make sure to use a dust mask, as diatomaceous earth can cause irritation to the lungs if inhaled. So-called "Chinese Chalk" (illegal in the US, but widely available at your local Chinatown) is also effective.

If you're after a solution not involving the mess of liquids or powders, you can try covering the vertical surface of your container with scotch tape. The tape is too slick for ants to walk on easily, especially going straight up. The caveat to this method is that the tape must be perfectly smooth. Any creases or folds in the tape will provide a foothold, which ants will be quick to exploit.
As a final note, none of these methods will work if a "bridge" is provided for ants to bypass the barrier. Make sure not to lean any thing against the container, or let cords or the like hang down onto them! Ants are tremendously resourceful, and the most minute pathway to the food will soon become a booming highway of hungry bugs.

When storing your pet food you should always go with a quality pet food storage containers. These storage containers are designed to keep your pet's food fresh and tasty and they keep other animals, both wild and domestic, out of the food. The quality of the dog food storage and cat food storage containers make all the difference.


Check out our Pet Food Storage items at West Coast Pet Supply

BEWARE OF THE QUICKING - CUTTING YOUR DOG'S NAILS


Beware of the Quicking- Cutting Your Dog's Nails
By: Peter Demmon

You have no doubt heard of someone biting their nails to the quick. The quick is basically the tender, sensitive flesh under the nail. Dogs have different kinds of nails than humans. In the case of a dog, cutting to the quick can be serious business. The quick for a dog's nail comes long before the flesh because it is part of the nail. Clipping your dog's nails regularly is good because it avoids health issues, there are plenty of nail clipping products available, and nail it is good for your relationship with your dog.

There are a several healthy reasons for the regular clipping of a dog's nails. The first being that long nails are uncomfortable for your dog. Extra long nails can actually lead to your dog limping as he tries to distribute his weight over his paws. The second is that unclipped toenails can lead to ingrown nails. When a dog's nails become ingrown, they have curved around and are growing back into your dog's paw. Usually this means right into the pad. A dog with long nails is also more apt to get their nail snagged in any number of places. Also, torn, cracked, or yanked out nails can be the consequence of unnecessarily long nails.

A dog's nail is different from a humans in the sense that it has a its quick running through part of it. This flesh, when clipped, will bleed and will cause your dog pain. The term for clipping into the quick is called, "quicking." Obviously, if the cut is too deep into the quick, a run to the vet will have to happen. However, for those smaller quickings, it is good to have some over the counter styptic powder, styptic swabs, or a styptic pencil around. The drawback is that the styptic treatment will sting. Other solutions are cornstarch, flour, a bar of soap, or just a paper towel. A small quicking won't bleed much. Whatever the case is, you want the bleeding to stop. In doing research for this article, I asked a few different dog owners about their toenail clipping methods. All of them, even the most seasoned, said that bleeding is a regular part of ail clipping.
The way that you hold your dog during the nail clipping process is as individual as your relationship with your dog. Some people like to hold their dog on their lap and others like to be in a position to hold the dog, and possibly lean on him if needed to prevent squirming. A grooming table is a possible solution for the positioning of your dog while clipping his nails.

The best way to get your dog used to having his nails cut is to start working with them early on in his life. A suggestion that I've heard time and time again is that the best time to work with a dog on his nails is directly after a bath when the nails are soft.

Dog nails are like human nails in the sense that they grow at varying speeds. Active dogs, who walk daily on pavement won't need to worry about a nail clipping session as much as dogs that spend the bulk of their time indoors. Regular nail-clipping owners say that the signal that its time for a nail-clipping is that they can hear their dog's nails clicking on the floor in the kitchen.

There is also the dew claw to worry about. The dew claw is basically the dog's thumb, which doesn't come in contact with the pavement and if present, needs to be clipped. Some dogs don't have a dew claw and some have two.

There are several different kinds of clippers available. There are scissors, pliers, and guillotine types. There is also a line of clippers that work in the guillotine fashion called, "Quickfinder" which actually senses where the quick is under the nail. Most dog-nail clippers feature a stopping point, usually a metal lip built-in so that the owner can't clip the dog's nails too deeply. The fact that clippers limit how much of a "bite" the clipper can take out of the nail is actually perfect, because it sets up the process for properly clipping a dog's nails.
A dog's nails shouldn't be clipped in hunks, but they should be clipped with little bites. The chances of a quicking are minimized with this method. If you are wary about clipping your dog's nails, you should start small. You don't have to take the nails all the way to the point before the quick. Doing this will help your dog to get used to the notion of you clipping his nails, and will also get you familiar with the process.
Of course, one of the best ways to learn how to clip a dog's nails would be to sit in on a veterinarian's session with your dog and observe closely the process closely. Ultimately, this will become a process that you can take over.

The trimming of your dog's nails is one that is serious because of a possible quicking. This is a process that can be learned easily. Lots of people trim their own dog's nails. Take your time and get to know your dog's nails. Ask a lot of questions and when you use clippers, take off small portions. Clipping your dog's nails regularly is good because it is healthy, easy to find clipping products, and good for you and your dog's relationship.

Nail Care Products for Your Dog at West Coast Pet Supply
Miracle Coat QuickFinder Safety Pet Nail Clippers

TIME FOR A GROOMING TABLE


Time For a Grooming Table
By: Peter Demmon

Brushing your dog's hair or trimming your dog's nails can be difficult chores. Of course a big part of this is the temperament of your dog, but an even greater aspect of it all is where you choose to do your grooming. You should have enough control of the situation that you can localize where the excess fur or nail trimmings go. A bathtub, the floor, the couch or the front porch are all tried and true locations for dog grooming. However, the truth of the matter is that dog grooming tables exist because they make the chore that much easier. Bathtubs get clogged with dog hair, nail-trimmings can fall out of your hands and into the couch, and dog hair can blow all over the porch. Sure you could groom your dog on the floor or in the bathtub, but chances are there will be a lot of bending over and struggling on your part. You should be able to have full access to your dog in order to get down to grooming business. What you need is a table where your dog is in place and you have control over where all the doggie detritus goes. Dog grooming tables make dog grooming easy, and they are well worth the investment.

The benefits of home dog grooming table are both simple and economic. Some dog owners like to take their dog to the local dog salon to have their dogs groomed and pampered. In preparation for writing this article, I checked out the local listings and was amazed at how many various dog grooming places there are here in Santa Cruz alone. I also checked out the pricing. Yes, these are trained professionals, but long-run dollars can be saved if you do the grooming yourself. Plus, it helps you to further seal your bond with your pet. If you can find the time to take care of brushing your dog's hair and the odd nail trimming, home is the way to go. But in order to do a proper grooming of your dog, you should really consider where you will do your grooming. The idea of having your dog elevated and easily accessible makes a lot of sense. Part of getting the proper grooming table for your dog is to know what to look for. This article is going to tell you the points that you should consider if you are on the market for a dog grooming table.

When looking for a dog grooming table you have to consider many things. One is your height and the other is the size of the dog. The table that the dog will sit on should be big enough that the dog can lie down and not hang his limbs over the side. It should also be tall enough that you aren't putting a lot of pressure on your lower back as you go to work.

Grooming tables also need to be sturdy and well-footed. In my research for this article, I saw many tables on the market today with flimsy legs, or legs requiring several unnecessary adjustments. Your grooming table shouldn't be a typical fold-out table, but it also shouldn't be overly complicated either. Your grooming table has to be something that can take weight in any of its corners and remain upright. The legs also shouldn't be weak enough that they will bend, buckle, or shift if weight or pressure isn't evenly applied to them. Your pet is going to be on this platform for extended periods of time, it is worth the investment to make sure that it is safe.

Another aspect of a grooming table is to keep the dog in place. The standard grooming table solution for this is a contraption known as "the arm." The arm is a metal post designed to go up and then arc over your dog. Basically arm is a leashing post on the table. The arm should be something that is sturdy and not flimsy. A flimsy arm would make it possible for your dog to pull and possibly lose his balance.

I have seen many different variations, but typically at the end of the arc at the top of the arm or bolted into it somewhere within the arc is the noose. The noose, while sounding a bit savage or barbaric, is actually the common term for this part of the table. The noose is a security measure. In essence it is just a leash that should be used to keep your dog in position. Grooming tables are sold with and without arms. It seems like a no-brainer that an arm is completely necessary.
You should always have your dog under control while grooming. If the dog is comfortably held in place by a noose on the table then most potential accidents are bypassed. Your dog should be able to stand on the table, but the mobility should be limited. Obviously, a dog is going to know that he is elevated and not jump, but the noose is good to hold him snugly in place to that you can groom him without the worry of him falling over the side.

Another aspect of your potential grooming table to pay attention to is the surface of the table top. The tables are made with the awareness that dogs are hairy and potentially slippery. The table tops tend to have non-slip surfaces so that the dog doesn't slip and slide while you are trying to brush their hair. This also helps with the cleaning of the table afterward. Also, your table should be moisture resistant, so that if your dog is wet, it won't affect the table top.
It is also good to pay attention to how the grooming table is assembled. Screws and bolts shouldn't be a part of the edges. This would be a bad thing, because your dog's hair or your shirtsleeve could get caught in them. The edges should also have soft corners and the corners themselves should be rounded so that if per-chance, your dog's leg were to slip over the side, there would be no injury.
If you are considering making your dog-grooming experience easier, or if you are looking into saving some dog-grooming dollars, a home grooming table is probably for you. Grooming tables can be pricey, but they are generally affordable. Considering the amount that will be saved by doing the grooming yourself, and the bonding that you can do with your pet they ultimately pay for themselves. If you are already doing your pet grooming elsewhere in your house, a grooming table is definitely a step up. A proper grooming table seems like the option that is easiest for both the pet owner and their dog.

Check out our Precision Pro-Series Grooming tables at West Coast Pet Supply

FACEBOOK FAN COUPONS

Facebook Fan Page Coupons.
By: WCPS

We have a promo that is happening on our Facebook Fan Page that is good enough for its own blog post.

All you have to do is become our fan, and then you have access to these coupons.

Become our fan HERE

Then you will be able to use our coupons, which are as follows:
$5 off of orders $25 or more.
$10 off of orders $50 or more.
Or the whopper:
$20 off of orders $100 or more(!)

You have GOT TO hurry though, these coupons expire on December the 15th, 2010.

Place your order and type in the corresponding code in the "coupon code" box at the bottom of the checkout page. One coupon code per customer.  The discount will be applied at checkout.
West Coast Pet Supply ships with UPS to all 50 states.  Alaska, Hawaii and Military Personnel are shipped via USPS.

Once again: Become our FACEBOOK FAN
Start shopping at WEST COAST PET SUPPLY
Its that simple.  $20 off of a $100 order?  Seriously people, that is a deal. 

Thursday, December 2, 2010

MARS COAT-KING STRIPPING COMBS

Mars Coat-King Stripping Combs
By: WCPS

West Coast Pet Supply now stocks Mars Coat-King stripping combs.  Manufactured by Mars of Australia,  these stripping combs are perfect for removing undercoat hair.  They are sturdy, wooden- handled stripping combs made with high quality steel.

Stripping combs have traditionally removed only small amounts of hair at a time and been snag-prone.   The Mars Coat-King stripping comb features an overhand approach versus the standard side/angle stripping. Mars Coat-King strippers can clear large areas in need of de-matting and de-tangling fast.  They strip out a post-season undercoat quickly.  A little pressure and combing in the direction of the hair is all the Mars Coat-King stripper needs.

This stripper is great for all different breeds for both long-haired and short-haired dogs alike. Mars Coat-King strippers even work well for cats and horses.  The Mars Coat-King stripper looks sort of like a rake with curved rounded points at the end, the underside of the  rake is where the sharpened blades are. These blades are easy to use and leave your pet with a healthy looking coat.

Mars Coat-King strippers are available with several different blade counts. Obviously dogs with thicker coats need less blades.  Soft, short-haired dogs need more blades to strip through their coat.  West Coast Pet Supply currently stocks 8, 10, 12, and 16 blade Mars Coat-King strippers, plus a mini-coat stripper for the face and delicate jobs.

Purchase Mars Coat-King Stripping Combs at West Coast Pet Supply

Wednesday, November 24, 2010

BERGAN SEAT PROTECTOR

BERGAN SEAT PROTECTOR
By: WCPS


West Coast Pet Supply now stocks Bergan Seat Protectors, for the bench seats in your compact SUV, Minivan or Pickup.

Bergan, with the motto, “Jump in-live intentionally-relish life with your best friends,” offers a seat cover that is perfect for messy camping trips, sports excursions and general yardwork. If the chore is going to make things dirty, this is the solution. It is particularly useful if there are pets and kids involved. This is a simple solution to that will keep your vehicle bench seat clean.

The seat covers come in three different colors, tan, grey, and black. The measurements that these seat covers fit follow these approximates: -53 in. seat width -59.5 in. seat-back width -22 in. seat depth -32 in. seat back height. In addition, they are easy to install, with simple access for seatbelts. They are also machine washable. One click locks your seat protector down, there aren't a lot of straps, strings and hooks involved.

These seat covers are made with 600 denier polyester. Denier polyester is the material that is used to make suitcases, duffel bags and even some air duct systems. Denier is technically a unit of weight indicating the fineness of fiber filaments and yarns. In short, denier polyester isn't the standard polyester used to make work pants, but a polyester that has been twisted together quite a bit more. The Bergan Seat Protector is a sturdy product, built for some abuse. If you want to keep the bench seat of your car/truck/SUV free from the stains and potential damage that can come with some outdoor activities, this is the seat cover for you.

Tuesday, November 23, 2010

ROUNDWORMS, DEWORMING, AND YOUR DOG

ROUNDWORMS, DEWORMING, AND YOUR DOG
By: Peter Demmon


Roundworms (Toxocara canis) are an extremely common form of parasite that dogs and their owners have to deal with. Roundworms are the most common intestinal parasite that affect puppies. Roundworms can infect your dog in several ways, they affect newborn dogs, are determined by common symptoms, and are a rather frequent dog parasite. Roundworms are the very reason why a regular deworming regimen should be a part of your dog's life.

The most simple form or roundworm infection is when your dog ingests roundworm-infected feces.The shorthand definition of a roundworm infection is that the eggs hatch in the stomach and go to the liver, then the larvae work towards the lungs by moving through the blood. Once the larvae arrive at the lungs, they are coughed up and swallowed into the the stomach and ultimately deposited in the small intestine.

There are however, several different ways that a dog can become a host to this parasite. For example, roundworm eggs can exist in the soil for years, so, a dog cleaning his contaminated paws can pull roundworm eggs into his system that way. Additionally, a dog may be dewormed, but that only takes care of the roundworms in the intestines. The roundworm larvae also burrow into parts of the dog (like the liver) and then go to dormant (encyst) for years. A deworming won't kill these larvae. Some pet owners believe that dogs should be dewormed twice a year. While researching this article, I even talked to a dog owner who deworms his dogs every month. The rationale behind this type of vigilance is because of the dormancy issue. Another aspect of the dormancy issue is if a dog eats a rodent carrying roundworm larvae. Roundworm larvae encyst and go dormant in "transport hosts" like rodents, waiting for the chance that their intermediate host might be consumed by a dog so they can awaken and continue their life cycle.
Read the rest of the Ezine article here

Purchase 8in1 Safe-Guard Canine Dewormer at West Coast Pet Supply

PREPARING YOUR DOG FOR THE WINTER MONTHS

PREPARING YOUR DOG FOR THE WINTER MONTHS
By: Peter Demmon



When the winter comes, it is time to think of a whole new set of ways to make the season comfortable for you and your dog. Your dog's warmth, feet, and even a seat cover for the interior of your car are all things to consider during the winter months. Obviously, areas where there is snow can be a complete game-changer, however, areas with heavy rainfall also need a bit of precaution as well.

If you spend a lot of time out with your dog in heavy weather, check your dog's ears and feet. If they are cold, that is a good inclination on how they really feel. Dogs can get frostbite. It also is a good idea to keep check the pads of your dog's feet if you are trekking your dog through the snow to make sure that there is no fur and snow buildup between the pads. If there is excess fur between the pads, snow can pack in there and actually make painful snowballs between the pads. Proper trimming of the fur and nails on your dog's feet is good during the winter months.

A viable solution to your dog's cold feet can be dog booties. There are several different brands available for your dog's feet. Walkaboots Dog Boots are a common brand that are actually made out of neoprene, are machine washable, and have rubber soles that are built to help your dog in winter weather.
Read the rest of the Ezine article here

Purchase Bergan Seat Protectors at West Coast Pet Supply

Purchase Walkaboots Dog Boots at West Coast Pet Supply

Purchase Septiderm V Antiseptic Skin Care Lotion for Your Dog at West Coast Pet Supply

Friday, November 19, 2010

PURINA PRO PLAN

PURINA PRO PLAN
By: WCPS


West Coast Pet Supply is excited to now stock six items of the Purina Pro Plan dog food line. We have considered our customers and have focused on their puppies, large breed puppies, large breed adult sized dogs, adult dogs, and dogs with sensitive skin and stomachs.

For puppies, we are currently stocking Purina Pro Plan Chicken and Rice Formula. This dog food features chicken as its main ingredient and features antioxidants and high nutritional value for your growing pup. Also, for large breed puppies, we now have Purina Pro Plan Large Breed Formula for puppies that will weigh more than 50 lbs when full-sized. This dog food features chicken as its number one ingredient, but it is also contains naturally occurring with glucosamine for joint health and mobility.

For large breed dogs that have already reached full-size we are now stocking Purina Pro Plan Large Breed formula for dogs over 50 lbs. This dog food features chicken a naturally occurring adult serving of glucosamine for joints, cartilage and movement.

Puppies, full-grown dogs, and the reproducing dogs are all covered with Purina Pro Plan All Life Cycle Chicken and Rice. This is a dog food product good for any season of your dog's life. We are also stocking Purina Pro Plan Natural Salmon and Brown Rice Formula for adult dogs. This is a special blend that contains salmon as its main ingredient. Furthermore, it contains no corn, wheat or soy.

We have also added Purina Pro plan Performance formula, which features chicken and is infused with omega 3. This is a dog food that has been engineered to support lean muscle mass. For dogs that are sensitive about their food, we now stock Purina Pro Plan Sensitive Skin and Stomach Formula. The Sensitive Skin and Stomach formula features salmon as its main ingredient.

With all of the various types, sizes and temperaments of dogs in our customer base, West Coast Pet Supply is looking forward to serving you with the Purina Pro Plan dog food line.

West Coast Pet Supply will gladly take manufacturer's coupons for Purina Pro Plan dog food.  Please print or clip the coupon and mail it to us:  WEST COAST PET SUPPLY 3660 Soquel Drive, Soquel, CA 95073.  Upon receipt we will credit your account/order.

For a Purina Pro Plan Coupon, click this link and follow the instructions given.


Visit the West Coast Pet Supply main page for more products for your pet

Thursday, November 18, 2010

FLEAS ARE A DOG'S TAPEWORM DELIVERY SYSTEM



FLEAS ARE A DOG'S TAPEWORM DELIVERY SYSTEM
By: Peter Demmon


Although the concept of a tapeworm is rather disgusting, the harm that it presents to your pet dog is rather limited. Surprisingly enough, fleas play a crucial part in the presence of tapeworms. Over-the-counter products are available to combat this parasite and the chances of humans contracting the parasite as a result of their family pet are rather thin.

It is really a rather complicated road for a canine tapeworm to finally attach itself to the walls of your dog's intestines. The road begins with an infected dog passing a segment of a tapeworm out of its anus. The segment is widely described as the size of a grain of rice, or compared to a sesame seed. The segment contains up to 60,000 tapeworm eggs. At times the segment passes with the feces and at other times the segment works its way out on its own. Sometimes, the segment remains with the dog, stuck to its fur. Grosser still is the fact that it is moving when it is fresh.
Read the rest of the Ezine article here

TradeWinds Tape Worm Tablets For Dogs at West Coast Pet Supply

Wednesday, November 17, 2010

DETECT A HOOKWORM INFESTATION IN YOUR DOG


DETECT A HOOKWORM INFESTATION IN YOUR DOG
By: Peter Demmon

One of the most common irritants a dog owner is going to have to deal with outside of fleas is that of the hookworm. Hookworms are an extremely common dog parasite. Their method of infection (as with most parasites) is rather unique, the symptoms that they give are obvious and the prevention of hookworm infestation is an ongoing battle. The solutions to a hookworm infestation are relatively simple however, and a hookworm infestation shouldn't be the cause for alarm.

Hookworms are bloodsuckers. The hookworm larvae are tricky. The larvae are found in the feces left behind by an infected dog. They hatch in about a day and can live for many weeks on the ground without any sustenance. Technically, all your dog has to do is brush up against an active larvae it will do the rest. One method of infection is that the larvae will bore into the dog through the skin and work its way to the lungs. In the lungs, the larvae becomes a juvenile hookworm. The parasite is then coughed up as mucous and re-swallowed into the stomach where the infection can really take hold, with the parasite's attachment to the intestinal wall. Hookworms are extremely thin, almost transparent worms that can get to be about a half of an inch long. They are basically a hose with teeth suck nonstop.
Read the rest of the Ezine article here

8in1 Safe-Guard Canine Dewormer at West Coast Pet Supply

ALLEVIATING HIP DYSPLASIA PAIN IN DOGS


ALLEVIATING HIP DYSPLASIA PAIN IN DOGS
By: Peter Demmon

Hip dysplasia in dogs is a horribly painful disease. It is a disease that doesn't just affect large-breed dogs, though traditionally it is assumed that these are the only dogs that get it. There are some solutions to ease your dog's pain and work with the disease however. The avoidance of obesity, a regular, low impact exercise routine and glucosamine all seem to be parts of the solution. With the proper insight and attention, a dog's suffering can be assuaged.

The simplest way of looking at hip dysplasia is that the bones of the hips don't fit together correctly. The thigh bone (the ball) is supposed snugly fit into the hip bone(the socket). Part of that snug fit is for movement, and another part of that fit is for weight support. Obviously, there is more than just bone there, there is a layer of cartilage involved. When any of these factors are compromised, it is called hip dysplasia.
The technical terms of this are that the femur is supposed to fit into the acetabulum. The femur being the thigh bone and the acetabulum being the hip socket. Think of your own leg and how easily it rotates within of your hip. Now imagine an air pocket in there, or a layer of sandpaper covering the femur. Or imagine that it is just loose, and that you can reach down with your hand and wiggle your leg inside of the socket. You are well on your way to comprehending a dog's hip dysplasia.

If the bones don't fit properly, there will ultimately be some friction and that can lead to all sorts of arthritic pain issues. The degrees of pain can be mild to none, or extreme. If the ball is knocking around in the socket, this is called subluxation (partial dislocation). If the ball drops completely out of the socket, this is called luxation (complete dislocation). More interesting still is the fact that both legs will be affected, this isn't a "single-side" issue. The limp that a dog will demonstrate is merely on the most compromised side.
Think again about the sandpaper between the ball and socket. There is supposed to be a smooth surface called the articular hyaline cartilage (or gristle) surface. It is basically a layer of springy cartilage. Obviously, this would be the oil or grease for the machine, but in the case of hip dysplasia, this layer of meaty lubrication is no longer present. What results is bone grinding against bone for each motion in the hip. The ugliest part of this entire cycle is that the dog's body tries to compensate for this by creating more bone within the hip socket and on the ball of the femur. This in turn can cause lots of painful, freakish misshaping as new bone is worn away.
 Read the rest of the Ezine article here

Missing Link Plus Joint Support For Dogs at West Coast Pet Supply

Tuesday, November 16, 2010

CREATING THE BEST LIVING ENVIRONMENT FOR YOUR RABBIT


CREATING THE BEST LIVING ENVIRONMENT FOR YOUR RABBIT
By: Andrew Massaro

Although any rabbit kept as a pet should be given plenty of time to roam free through the house or a designated "play area", its cage will still be where it spends most of its time. Rabbits are inherently "domestic" (as opposed to "domesticated") animals- in other words, they need to have a home! In the wild, they dig out large warrens where they are safe from predators, in the company of their fellow rabbits, and able to safely raise their young. Therefore, it is no surprise that these intelligent creatures have a sense of "home". A rabbit whose cage is not a home, but a prison, will suffer from all the ill effects that depression can wreak on them- obesity, listlessness, destructive behavior, and greater susceptibility to disease. On the contrary, a rabbit who is secure and satisfied with his home will be healthier, more sociable, and a great joy to keep.

The first and most important factor to consider in creating a happy home is the size of the cage. Various owners offer varying rules of thumb for rabbit cage size. Some say one square foot per pound of rabbit; others suggest that the cage should be four times the size of the rabbit. In any event, bigger is better, and it should always be tall enough for the rabbit to stand on its back legs without its ears pushing against the ceiling. You may be able to get away with a cage that is smaller than recommended, but this means giving your rabbit more time to roam the area outside his cage.
Read the rest of the Ezine article here

Super Pet Premium Rabbit Hutch at West Coast Pet Supply

KEEPING YOUR RABBIT'S CAGE CLEAN FOR THEIR HEALTH


KEEPING YOUR RABBIT'S CAGE CLEAN FOR THEIR HEALTH
By: Andrew Massaro


Keeping your rabbit enclosure clean and hygienic is an important part of maintaining your rabbit's health and happiness. Rabbit urine produces toxic ammonia, and feces attract flies and bacteria. A dirty cage will be a breeding ground for disease, and a threat not only to your rabbit's health, but your own. Regular cage cleanings are mandatory for anyone keeping a rabbit in a cage.

The owner must strike a balance, however, between keeping the cage clean, and respecting the rabbit's territorial instincts. For the cage to be a home, rather than a prison, the rabbit must feel a sense of "ownership" over its environment. This is why it is a bad idea to force the rabbit in or out of the cage. By the same token, removing items such as food bowls from the cage while the rabbit is watching will undermine the rabbit's sense of ownership, and make it less comfortable as a result. Save cage cleaning time for when the rabbit is out and about in the house.
Read the rest of the Ezine article here

Clean Cage Wipes at West Coast Pet Supply

RABBIT PROOFING YOUR HOME


RABBIT PROOFING YOUR HOME
By: Andrew Massaro


If you plan on letting your rabbit live inside your home (and you should!) there are a number of steps you need to take to keep your rabbit and your furniture and appliances safe.

Rabbits are ravenous chewers. They will gnaw on practically anything within their reach. This makes for a very dangerous dynamic when you put a rabbit near power cables that run along the floors of your home. The first and easiest option to prevent your bunny from chewing on these cables is to try to run all the electrical wires in your home behind or below furniture where they will be inaccessible to your rabbit. If you can't successfully hide all of your power wires, there are three other options you can consider.

Plastic tubing can be purchased and wrapped around wires to prevent easy access by your rabbit. The same is true of spiral cable wrap. These two options are generally pretty effective but some rabbits still manage to chew their way through them. The third option is to buy decorative wire concealers that run along the bottoms of your walls with the wires tucked safely behind them. This is a time consuming and pricey method, but it is probably the most effective at keeping your rabbit away from the wires.
Read the rest of the Ezine article here

Super Pet Welcome Home Hutch at West Coast Pet Supply

HOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST LITTER FOR YOUR RABBIT


HOW TO CHOOSE THE BEST LITTER FOR YOUR RABBIT
 By: Andrew Massaro

Many first-time rabbit owners are surprised to learn that rabbits are quite easily litter-trained. These clever, habitual little animals will take to using a designated elimination area as readily as dogs or cats, and a litterbox of some kind is a smart choice for any rabbit owner. Here are some tips on what to look for in a litter pan and litter material.
Size is important in the litter pan. If it's too small, the rabbit may try to use it, but wind up simply hanging its rear over the edge and eliminating onto the floor of the cage. A good-sized litter pan should be big enough for the rabbit to climb into and turn around in. High sides are a plus, as they'll keep the rabbit from kicking litter or waste out onto the floor- just make sure they aren't so tall that the rabbit can't comfortably get into the litter pan. You'll want to check under the litter pan regularly at first to make sure there's no urine pooling underneath it.
Read the rest of the Ezine article here

Katee Kay Kob Bedding and Litter at West Coast Pet Supply

THE PERILS OF DRY CAT FOOD



THE PERILS OF DRY CAT FOOD
By: Peter Demmon

Cats are obligate (true) carnivores and need a diet that is heavy in meat-based protein. However, the majority of dry cat foods available at the supermarket contain a high level of grains and vegetable matter (carbohydrates) that aren't necessarily good for your pet.

The purpose of adding vegetables and grains in dry cat food is simple: price. Meat simply costs more to process. The argument that some pet food producers present is that the presence of carbohydrates aids in digestion and supplies a cat with extra energy. This is an argument that has helped make it possible for dried cat food to have as much a 30-70% carbohydrate count. Some examples of the types of carbohydrate foods that are packaged for cats in are corn meal, wheat gluten and potatoes. These are all foods that a feline wouldn't consume in the wild. Plants do provide protein, but not the kind of protein that truly benefits a cat.
Read the rest of the Ezine article here

EVO Cat Food at West Coast pet Supply