Friday, January 28, 2011

PRECISION SOFT CRATES AND SNOOZZY COMFORTERS

Precision Soft Crates and Snoozzy Comforters 

By: WCPS


Precision offers lightweight soft crates for a less rambunctious dog. The sides are made of a strong washable fabric. Precision crates have 4 reinforced doors (3 on the side and one on the top), a removable, washable mat and cover, rear pockets and a water bottle opening and holder.
 
This is a crate that isn't for a puppy or untrained dog. A dog that digs or chews won't enjoy all of the benefits of this type of crate. However, a mild-mannered dog that needs a den to relax in would do well with a soft crate.
 
Precision's soft crates are perfect for on the go living. The crate is ready to go when you are, easily broken down and easily assembled. They are great for a day at the park, beach or campsite. They also work great in the front yard, or at your neighbor's barbecue.
Precision offers many different size crates for your dog.
 
 
 
 
 
 
To keep the crate warm and comfy, Precision also makes SnooZZy Comforters which fit perfectly into Precision's soft crates. The SnooZZy Comforter is easy to roll up and tuck away. It is also machine washable, and dries plat out in the sun. The SnooZZy Comforter has no zippers, buttons or hasps. No inner pads, foam or stuffing to pull out either.
 
 
SnooZZy Sleepers are another option for your dog's crate lining. While not quite the thickness of a dog bed, these really do the trick and fit perfectly in the bottom of a Precision crate. SnooZZy Sleepers are also machine washable.
 
 
There is also the SnooZZy Pet Bed, with a thick fabric rim all the way around to keep your dog in place while he sleeps.  This product can also work well with a Precision Soft Crate.
 
 
If your dog is not too rowdy, perhaps a Precision Soft Crate is the right product for him.
 





Tuesday, January 25, 2011

NATURA FREQUENT BUYER CLUB


Natura Frequent Buyer Club
By: WCPS

West Coast Pet Supply is proud to honor Natura Pet's Frequent Buyer Club coupons.

Customers who purchase 10 bags of Natura Pet Food (Innova, California Natural, Evo, Healthwise and Karma) are eligible for a free bag for pet food.

The easiest way to take advantage of this offer is to start saving your UPC symbols from your bags of Natura dog and cat foods. If you don't have the voucher envelope and form, email us and we will include it in your next order. The form will ask you for your personal details and which store you do your purchasing from. All 10 UPC symbols can fit into the envelope and then be sent to Natura. Natura will then send you a voucher coupon, which we will honor here at West Coast Pet Supply.

A couple of key points need to be made though.

1. The smallest size of pet food that you buy as you amass your 10 UPC symbols is the size that you will be reimbursed for.

2. WCPS will honor the free bag of food coupon that Natura will send you, however, we cannot honor free shipping. But, with a free bag of pet food, you might just want to do some more shopping to offset the shipping charges!

See all our various dog foods that we stock here at WEST COAST PET SUPPLY

Monday, January 24, 2011

DOG TRAINING LEADS AND MORE

Dog Training Leads and More
By: WCPS

West Coast Pet Supply currently stocks several different sizes of dog training leads. Shorter training leads are great for teaching your dog to stay in a specific spot and stepping away from him. Also, with a training lead you can walk all the way around your dog at a distance and have him hold his position. When the “stay” command is mastered, the dog can then be called forward in short distances.

10 ft. training lead             15 ft. training lead               20 ft. training lead                50 ft. training lead

Another item that should be incorporated with training leads is some sort of regular treat. When a dog accomplishes the task that you have set before him, a positive reinforcement outside of your gushing praise works even better with something tangible. We stock several treats for this kind of occasion. Gimborn Freeze Dried Liver Training Treats are a regular standby. They are made of 100% liver with nothing else. Dogs love them.



Also, if you choose to work with the 50 foot training lead, you will need some items for activities at a distance. The Chuck It Ball Tosser is a great product with a ball claw that keeps your hands dry and allows you to throw the ball farther and faster. The Chuck It comes with one ball and extra fetching balls in packs of four can be purchased. Another item that can be used with the 50 foot lead is the training whistle. Teach your dog to come with this whistle, and the lead is a wonderful way to ensure this. The 50 foot lead is the last step before your dog has earned the right to go leashless, make it worth his while!

Chuck It Ball Tosser                      Chuck It Spare Balls                  Acme Dog Whistle Thunderer

Training your dog with a training lead is a great way to interact with your dog and teach him all sorts of proper etiquette. It is also a wonderful way to play with your dog and train him to come back to you from longer distances. We have all of the products here at West Coast Pet Supply to make the training of your dog that much easier and that much more rewarding.

Click here to see the rest of our Dog Training Supplies

Friday, January 14, 2011

PARVOVIRUS - THE PUPPY KILLER



Parvovirus - The Puppy Killer
By: Peter Demmon


Canine parvovirus was first diagnosed in 1978. Because of its strength and mobility, the virus proceeded to go worldwide in less than 2 years. The parvovirus is a virus that mutates. Some feel that it is a virus that mutated from the feline distemper virus. Whatever the case is, this extremely contagious virus has mutated several times since its official discovery. Canine parvovirus has several different strains, the CPV1, CPV2. CPV2a, CPV2b, and CPV2c are all potential killers. While the canine parvovirus can be hindered with the proper shots, it is a vicious disease that is extremely contagious, dangerous, hard to contain, and needs to be slowed or stopped as soon as it is suspected.

Canine parvo tends to more readily infect Rottweilers, Doberman Pinschers, German Shepherds, Labrador Retrievers, American Staffordshire Terriers and their Pit Bull cousins more than other dogs. The first and foremost method of dodging a parvo infection is to get your puppy his shots. Unfortunately, no vaccine offers a 100% guarantee against parvo. Also, vaccinations help but there is no direct anti-viral medication for parvo. I have read horror story after horror story about under-vaccinated puppies coming home from the breeders or the pound only to go straight to the ER days later to die from Parvovirus. A puppy's vaccination schedule should always be up to date.

Parvo tends to prey upon puppies between 6 weeks and 6 months in age. Only 1,000 units of the virus are needed to cause an infection. An infected dog passes 35 million particles per ounce of stool. Parvo is plentiful and covers a lot of ground rather freely. Unfortunately, all a puppy has to do is sniff an infected stool for a serious chance at contracting parvovirus. Usually the infection is a result of ingestion. Oral contact with infected feces or immediate area are enough to warrant infection as well. It is also interesting is that parvo will survive almost anywhere. Parvo can be tracked into a house by the feet of a person who lives with a parvo-infected dog, or has visited a parvo-infected kennel or walked through an infected dog park. In my takedown of this subject, I've read accounts of people who feel that parvo can live for years outside of a host. There are countless other stories of it being tracked into new environments via clothing, tires, other animals, air, and water. It is also able to survive freezing temperatures in the ground during the winter. In short, if you have a dog, it will come in contact with parvo sooner or later.

After contact strong enough for infection, the parvo goes into an incubation period of three to fifteen days. Puppies are especially contagious to other dogs during this time. Another fascinating aspect of this virus is that its methods of attack can differ from dog to dog. Varying immune systems, whether the puppy is still nursing, and age play a part in the variety of parvo symptoms. As previously mentioned, proper shots and vaccinations are also key (there are stories of vaccinated dogs coming down with the disease). An example of the virus' varied attack patterns is that it can cause heart failure in a puppy less than 8 weeks old. Parvo can also cause respiratory (lung) failure. An untreated dog can die within 48 to 72 hours without the proper medical attention. The mortality of this disease can hit 91% if untreated. The virus usually starts by housing itself within the lymph glands. Fever and depression set in as the disease works its way to the intestinal tract. Parvo also simultaneously wrecks the dog's immune system as it shuts down white blood cell production in the marrow. Once in the intestinal tract, parvo's main purpose is to rip away at the intestinal lining. The result of this is that the intestinal lining is rendered unable to absorb food and water. There is also the potential for intussusception, which is when intestines slide in on themselves. Intussusception is basically a reducing of sections of intestine to the principles of a retracting telescope. The only solution to intussesception is surgery. Meanwhile, the dog is unable to control his fluid loss (via vomit and diarrhea) or stop the resulting bacterial infection.
Treatments for parvo are anti-nausea medication, fluid therapy (because of the constant vomiting and diarrhea), and antibiotics. With proper treatment there is an 80 percent recovery rate. Any dog that survives parvo is typically assumed to have a lifetime immunity from reinfection.

In the event of a post-parvo cleanup, everything that the infected dog has come in contact with needs to be sterilized. This means all dishes, floors, bedding, crates, etc. Parvo is impervious to many household disinfectants. Bleach is the key parvo-killer on surfaces. Steam cleaning on drapes, curtains, and upholstered furniture is another parvo-killing method. I have read stories of people staying vigilant with their parvo-disinfection for more than six months. The warning that I have heard again and again is that sterilized areas can easily become reinfected.

The accepted notion is that parvo will live for 30 days indoors after it has been introduced. The virus may still be alive, but it doesn't have the numbers to actually pull a full-blown infection off. Furthermore, all areas where the dog has defecated need to be purified with either bleach or scooped out of the yard. Shaded areas where an infected dog has left fecal matter should be considered infectious for at least seven months. Areas in the sun where an infected dog has left feces should be considered infectious for five months. One solution for the yard is a thorough soaking of the infected areas in order to dilute the virus. There are even accounts of people pouring bleach directly into the infected areas of their yards in to kill parvo off. In truth, it might very well be impossible to completely remove parvo from an environment. What has to happen is that there has to be such a reduction of the virus that it can't muster an attack. All dogs come into contact with parvo sooner or later in their lives. The longer a dog has been alive, the more time he's had to build up his immune system against it.
If there is any one reason to get your new puppy vaccinated and keep him up to date on his shots, parvo is definitely it. Parvo is one of the ugliest things that could potentially happen to a new puppy and his owner.

With the proper information about symptoms, shots, and a comprehension of its aggressive migration, a puppy owner can hopefully control and temper the chances of a parvovirus onslaught.

While researching this article, I time and time again came across people with parvo-surviving dogs that attributed part of the survival to a raw diet. Some feel that dogs are just domesticated wolves with a slightly different DNA code, and should eat like they would in the wild. The idea of feeding a raw diet is thought to be closer to what nature intended.

WEST COAST PET SUPPLY main page

CRATES AND BASIC CRATE TRAINING

Crates and Basic Crate Training
By: WCPS

Whether they are natural den animals or not, dogs function well in small, enclosed areas for limited amounts of time.  Think of the classic dog house in the backyard. The difference between a crate and a dog house aren't that big.  A crate is one of the more perfect things you can get for your dog so that he can have a space in the house that he can call his own. The crate should be his personal hangout spot. Dogs are social creatures and they want to be a part of the family, so the crate should be positioned somewhere in the house where the humans congregate, like the kitchen or the living room.

There are a lot of theories and philosophies in regards to crate-training. Two of the key points that seem to transcend all crate-based opinions are that a crate is never for punishment. If the crate is used for punishment, the dog will associate punishment with the crate itself, and never truly relax in it. The second is that potty training and crate training are separate things, but they go hand in hand. An example of this is that the dog spends some time in the crate, and then is taken outside immediately to relieve himself. Another example is that directly after relieving himself, the dog is then back inside of the crate. The key is that if your dog feels safe and accepts the crate as his own personal “den” then he isn't going to soil it. Part of helping your dog to accept the crate as his own personal den is to make it worthwhile and fun.

There are also many, many different games that can be played with a dog that will get them interested in going into their crate. An example is to toss a treat into the crate, but hold the dog back with the leash. Let the dog go get the treat as he gets more and more excited. Some owners continue this practice further and further away from the crate, making it a “good place to go” for the dog.

There are three kinds of crates: soft, plastic, and metal. A worthwhile aspect of a lot of crates is the fact that they can have their interior space split by a divider. This is good for when the crate is purchased for a puppy. The reason being is that if a puppy determines that he has too much space within the crate, he might choose to make a distant corner the “bathroom.” As the puppy grows, the divider can be removed.

Obviously, when purchasing a crate for a puppy, there should be some serious speculation and consideration put into how big the dog will become. It isn't comfortable or safe for a dog to be too big for his crate. The goal to keep in mind with crate training is to create positive associations with the crate, comfort is a big part of it all. If your dog is already fully grown, judging the size of the crate you need is easy. You can simply eyeball it by looking at your dog and picking a crate that is just big enough for it to stand or sit up without bumping its head, turn around, and lay down comfortably. A more exact method is to measure the length of your dog, from tip of nose to base of tail, and add three inches, which gives you the minimum length of the crate; for height, just measure from the floor to his shoulder, plus three inches. If you can't find a perfect fit, err on the side of too large rather than too small.

Click here to see our selection of soft crates here.


A soft crate is lightweight and for a less rambunctious dog. The sides are made of a strong washable fabric. The framework can vary from hard plastic to metal. This is a crate that isn't for a puppy or untrained dog. A dog that digs or chews can and will shred this type of crate. However, a mild-mannered dog tat needs a den to relax in would do well with a soft cage. Soft crates are less expensive but harder to clean. Soft crates are collapsible and can be folded and packed away easily. They aren't safe for traveling with, but they are perfect for the home, or the yard.

Click here to see our selection of metal crates here.


Metal crates are sturdy enough for the back of a car, SUV, truck or van. Some dogs appreciate them because they can see in all directions from inside. Metal crates offer a lot of ventilation, which is great on hot days. Some metal crates come with a removable floor pan.. The size of the crate should be big enough for your dog to stand up, turn around and lie down, with a water bowl. Some dog owners complain of injuries to their dogs within metal crates. This tends to be the dog's behavior within the crate and not the crate itself. Proper space for the dog is necessary. An example is that a dog wagging his tail in a metal crate could hurt himself. A metal crate is not a good crate for a dog that is a chewer. Lots of metal crates are collapsible as well

Click here to see our selection of plastic crates here.


Plastic crates seem to be the recognized standard. If the dog is able to relax without knowing all that is going on around them, plastic crates are good too. These kinds of crates are good for travel. Some speculate that plastic crates are the safest if your vehicle is in a car accident. Lots of plastic crates are airline approved, but it is good to ensure this before making a purchase. Plastic crates are only good for dogs that aren't serious chewers.

Whatever type of crate you decide on for your dog, be prepared to see him fully invest in it. A crate might be the best item that you ever get for your dog.

Click here to see the rest of our dog supplies.

Tuesday, January 11, 2011

ANTI-TICK WARFARE PART 3 - EHRLICHIOSIS


Anti-Tick Warfare Part 3 – Ehrlichiosis
By: Peter Demmon

Another reason to engage in all-out tick-warfare is ehrlichiosis. Ehrlichiosis is also known as tracker dog disease, canine rickettsiosis, canine hemorrhagic fever, tropical canine pancytopenia, and canine typhus. First described in 1935 as am illness with Algerian dogs, this sneaky, horrifying disease can ruin or claim the life of your pet if not caught in time. Ehrlichiosis is similar to both Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever and Lyme Disease with several of its signs. This is a disease that occurs worldwide. It is transplacental, meaning a mother dog can pass it to her offspring through the placenta. Dirty needles or a compromised blood transfusion can also bring about infection. The damage that ehrlichiosis can wreak upon a dog's system is brutal, possibly even comparable to a slow-moving ebola virus. With the following information on tick carriers, processes for tick removal, symptoms, treatments, and preventative measures a dog owner should be better prepared for ehrlichiosis and general anti-tick warfare.

Ticks are the undisputed carrier of ehrlichiosis. There is research taking place to determine other vectors of the disease such as mosquitoes, flies and chiggers. Another interesting aspect of ehrlichiosis is that the disease adheres to the principles of zoonosis. This means that is can be transmitted via vector from animals to humans and vice-versa. At this time, what is known is that ehrlichiosis is transmitted by the Brown Dog Tick and the Lone Star Tick (which can also carry Lyme Disease). The hard tick species known as Dermacentor variabilis (the American Dog tick) has been implicated as an ehrlichiosis carrier as well. While the Lone Star Tick is rather easy to identify because of its “star-splotch” on its back, the particulars of these other ticks are rather finicky. The fact is that if you find a fully engorged tick on your dog, your best bet is to (obviously) remove it, and then schedule a blood test.
The disease cycle works like this: an immature tick feeds on an animal that is a host of ehrlichiosis, then the ehlrlichiosis stays alive within that tick for up to 5 months. If the tick gets to another animal, it is able to transfer the ehrlichiosis. Ehrlichiosis is another rickettsia, like Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever (see my article Anti-Tick Warfare part 2). This means that ehrlichia are classified somewhere between a virus and a bacteria. There are two species reported in dogs, E. canis and E. risticii. It is possible for a dog to be infected with both species simultaneously, however, the standard prescribed antibiotic treatment will knock them both out. It is fortunate that both respond to the same method of treatment.

If your dog does indeed get bitten by a tick, there are many different methods for removal. One older method is to light a match behind the swollen tick and have the tick back out of the wound. I have personally done this method and watched the tick burst to the heat. I don't recommend it. Also, the heat may cause the tick to release even more of its contaminated saliva into the wound before exiting. Ticks burrow into the flesh head first so the best method by far is to get a pair of tweezers and gently extract the tick by grabbing it by its head, as close to the skin as possible. Pull slowly, and don't yank or twist it out like a splinter or thorn. Also try not to molest or bend the tick's body too hard in the process or the body will break off leaving the tick's head attached. If your dog has been bitten and you aren't sure about the time frame of the bite, it might be wise to schedule a visit to the vet.

Ehrlichia, named for Dr. Ehrlich who first described them, are a special type of infection that live within the white blood cells of their hosts.  Once infected, white blood cells start dying faster than they can be generated. The dead white cells are then moved to the spleen. This is because the spleen's primary purpose is to remove old red blood cells and hold a reserve of blood in case of an emergency. Most blood creation (haematopoiesis) happens within bone marrow. However, it also happens in the spleen. The ehrlichia proceed to slow down the new blood cell making process that takes place in bone marrow.

In my information takedown of ehrlichiosis, I found it referred to as "the AIDS of the canine world." Ehrlichiosis earns this monicker because it mimics other diseases well. Sometimes ehrlichiosis is misdiagnosed as leukemia or lymphosarcoma (cancer of the lymph nodes). It can also be misdiagnosed as any number of other diseases including brucellosis, thrombocytopenia, Valley Fever, blastomycosis and more.

There are three stages of ehrlichiosis. The stages are as follows: acute, subclinical, and chronic. Initially, there is an incubation period of 8-20 days after the bite. In the first to third week after the bite the dog will experience the acute phase of the disease. Depending on the formidability of the dog's immune system, the acute stage is where the signs of ehrlichiosisehrlichia are entering the white blood cells and reproducing inside of them. White blood cells are being hijacked throughout the dog's body, particularly within the lymph nodes, spleen, liver, and bone marrow. The acute stage, if addressed and handled properly with antibotics, leaves the dog just as good as before the infection. Lots of dogs are able to shake the acute stage off. However, some don't, and if the infection goes untreated, it gives away to the subclinical stage.

In the subclinical stage, the dog seems to be relatively fine. The subclinical stage has no outward signs and can potentially last for years. The ehrlichiosis has now limited itself to the spleen. However, there can be fevers and a loss of appetite during this stage. A dog can potentially be in the subclinical stage for an extended period of time, not really giving much of a hint that there is something wrong. Although, there is attrition, there aren't any grand signs of the infection. Also, the subclinical stage can be discarded and the chronic stage can start if the pet feels stress. Environmental stress (such as a move), a different illness, hard work, etc are all potential catalysts that could kick the dog's immune system over into the compromised “chronic” stage of ehrlichiosis.

If the dogs system remains unable to overcome the infection, then it will the chronic stage which is the final stage of this disease. The chronic phase is where the damage is really wreaked upon the dog's system. At this point, it is now official that the dog has a low white blood cell count (thrombocytopenia). In the chronic stage, the virus has taken up residency in the bone marrow. The chronic stage is also where the dog will probably suffer from some irreversible damage. It is not unusual for dogs in this stage to suffer massive internal bleeding, have a sudden stroke, have a heart attack, have kidney (renal) failure, splenic rupture or liver failure, most of which result in death. There are also a host of minor signs during this stage as well, such as neurological problems (repetitive obsessive actions), spontaneous bleeding, increased thirst and urination, skin sensitivity, disorientation, vomiting (primarily bile), diarrhea, inflammation of the eye, seizures, muscle wasting, skin infections, bleeding from the nose or eyes, arthritis, pneumonia, cough, neck or back pain, bleeding under the skin or a rash (purpura), swelling of the legs or joints, and more. With so many potential symptoms, the nickname of "the AIDS of the canine world," really makes a lot of sense.

The best prevention of canine ehrlichiosis is tick control. The drug of choice for treatment for all forms of ehrlichiosis is doxycycline for at least one month. Reinfection is possible after the dog clears the disease. Some dog owners who have gone through this disease with their dogs even state that a slight change in your pet's behavior is enough to look into ehrlichiosis. This is extremely important if there has been a recent tick bite.

There are several different options available at pet stores for tick management. Flea and tick collars are a common standard as are products like Spot On by Zodiac. Spot On is basically a treatment for the skin (applied between the shoulder blades) that spreads out over the dog's body and prevent ticks from hitching a ride. These types of preventative maintenance are usually good for several weeks to a month before they need to be re-applied. There are also anti-tick sprays that can be used outside and near where your dog is likely to play. Vigilance is the operative word here. Pay close attention to your dog's comings and goings during tick season.

If you live in an area that is heavily wooded or has a lot of untended grass and vegetation, the chances of ticks are relatively high. A dog owner whose dog frequents such areas should remain vigilant with all forms of anti-tick warfare. It is good to know that not all ticks carry ehrlichiosis, however, there are some serious steps that can be taken to minimize the chances of your dog being bitten. Comprehension of erhrlichiosis carriers, the processes of tick removal, the stages and symptoms of the disease, and general tick preventative measures are all pieces of information that can help a dog owner with both ehrlichiosis and full-on anti-tick warfare.

Spot On and more pet products can be purchased online at WEST COAST PET SUPPLY













Monday, January 10, 2011

ANTI-TICK WARFARE PART 2 - ROCKY MOUNTAIN SPOTTED FEVER


Anti-Tick Warfare Part 2 - Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever
By: Peter Demmon

Rickettsia rickettsii is the name of the bacteria that causes Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever. Rickettsia rickettsii (from now on RR) are a form of bacteria that is actually classified somewhere between a virus and true bacteria. RR is transmitted to a dog though the bite of the American Dog Tick and the The Rocky Mountain Wood Tick. RR comes from the Rickettsia genus of bacteria that are grouped together with the label of Proteobacteria. Proteobacteria are a wide-ranging, diverse enough group to be named after Proteus, the shape-changing son of Poseidon in Greek Mythology. Proteus could tell the future, but he didn't just tell the future to anyone, he had to be captured and secured first. Capturing Proteus wasn't easy, because he was a shapeshifter. This is where the word "protean" comes from, and something that is protean is something that can easily take on different forms. This should give you some insight into the variances of the bacteria that is called Rickettsia.

RR is the most lethal of the rickettsial illnesses in the United States. Just because it is called Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever doesn't mean that it is limited to the Rocky Mountains. This is an illness that spans the entire United States, Canada, Central and South America as well. With the following information on tick carriers, tick seasons, processes for tick removal, symptoms, treatments, and preventative measures a dog owner should be better prepared for Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever and general anti-tick warfare. There is no absolute method for complete tick eradication, but it is good to know what symptoms may result from a Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever infection..

There are two major vectors (organisms that transfer germs to other organisms) for Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever (from now on RMSF). They are the American Dog Tick and The Rocky Mountain Wood Tick. If your dog does indeed get bitten by a tick, there are many different methods for removal. One older method is to light a match behind the swollen tick and have the tick back out of the wound. I have personally done this method and watched the tick explode or pop due to the heat. I don't recommend it. Also, the heat may cause the tick to release even more of its contaminated saliva into the wound before exiting. Ticks burrow into the flesh head first so the best method by far is to get a pair of tweezers and gently extract the tick by grabbing it by its head, as close to the skin as possible. Pull slowly and surely, and don't yank it out like a splinter. You also don't want to molest the tick's body too hard or the body will break off leaving the tick's head attached. If your dog has been bitten and you aren't sure about the time frame of the bite, it might be wise to schedule a visit to the vet.

Another interesting aspect of RMSF is that the disease adheres to the principles of zoonosis. This means that is can be transmitted via vector from animals to humans and vice-versa. A vector isn't always needed for the transfer of zoonotic diseases however. RMSF is dangerous because it can be transmitted though infected tick guts (hemolymph) or waste matter. This type of infection would be the result of a ruptured or crushed tick. Care should be used when removing and disposing of ticks, whether infected or not. There have been cases of simultaneous infections of RMSF between dogs and their owners. Obviously the tick bite is the most serious method of RMSF transfer, but other contact with the bacteria can produce infection as well. Interestingly enough, RMSF affects only dogs and humans, an RR infection isn't something other animals have to worry about. RMSF has been recognized officially in humans since the 1930s, but wasn't officially diagnosed in dogs until the 1970s.

RMSF is determined by blood tests. There are two stages of RMSF, subclinical and acute. Subclinical is when the dog is infected but doesn't show any outward signs. It might even show up in lab tests, but the dog has had no symptoms, has recovered, or will recover on his own quickly. The acute stage features many different symptoms that can be misdiagnosed as different diseases. Loss of appetite, blood in the urine, irregular heartbeat, discolored spots that look bruises on the skin, swelling in the limbs, pain in the eyes, blown blood vessels in the eyes, swollen lymph nodes, fever, depression, abdominal pain, pain in the muscles and joints, vomiting, diarrhea, dizziness, blood in the stool, nose bleeds, renal (kidney) failure, heart failure, and possibly even seizures are all symptoms of RMSF.

RR is transmitted via tick saliva to the dog. It usually takes between 5 and 20 hours of attachment and feeding for the transmission of RR to take place. Most cases of RMSF are reported between March and October, with April through November being the primary tick season. Any number of RMSF symptoms will begin happening within 2-14 days of the tick bite. If RMSF is stopped soon enough with the proper antibiotics, the effects can be reduced drastically. However, some dogs react extremely seriously to this disease and their nervous systems can be forever compromised.

There are many different over the counter preventative treatments for ticks. Flea and tick collars are good as are products like Spot On by Zodiac which is basically drops for the skin that spread out over the dog's body and prevent ticks from hitching a ride. These types of preventative maintenance are usually good for several weeks to a month before they need to be re-applied. There are also sprays that can be used outside and near where your dog likes to frolic. The key word with all of these methods of anti-tick warfare is "vigilance," especially during tick season.

If you live in an area that is heavily wooded or has a lot of untended grass and vegetation, the chances of ticks are relatively high. A dog owner whose dog frequents such areas should remain vigilant with all forms of anti-tick warfare. It is good to know that not all ticks carry RR, however, there are some serious steps that can be taken to minimize the chances of your dog being bitten. Comprehension of RMSF, the processes of tick removal, specific RMSF symptoms, and general tick preventative measures are all pieces of information that can help a dog owner with both RMSF and full-on anti-tick warfare.

Click here to see the WEST COAST PET SUPPLY selection of Zodiac anti-flea and anti-tick products.

ANTI-TICK WARFARE PART 1 - LYME DISEASE


Anti-Tick Warfare Part 1 - Lyme Disease
By: Peter Demmon


Borrelia burgdorferi is the name of the bacteria that causes Lyme Disease. These bacteria look like a pig's tail or a corkscrew when examined under a microscope. Lyme Disease is named after Lyme Connecticut where the disease was first diagnosed in 1975. Lyme Disease was later recognized in dogs in 1985. Borrelia burgdoferi (from now on BB) is a specific bacteria that will only allow itself to be transported through a few different types of tick. Those few tick carriers, tick seasons, processes for tick removal, Lyme Disease symptoms, treatments, and preventative measures are all things that a dog owner should know about when engaging in anti-tick warfare. There is no moral issue with a pet owner aggressively destroying every tick found on his dog, but the owner should realize that not every tick is going to be a Lyme Disease carrier.

The most common tick that carries BB is the Deer Tick or the Black-Legged Tick. A Deer Tick's actual size is 1.4 centimeters which is extremely small, essentially the size of a grain of black pepper. The only way that this pest is going to become clearly visible is if it has latched on and is slightly engorged from feeding. There are two other ticks that carry Lyme Disease and they are the Western Black-Legged Tick (which is very similar in size to the aforementioned Deer Tick) and the Lone-Star Tick. The Lone-Star Tick has a white dot on its back, but seriously, if you are in close proximity with such a thing, or find it on your dog, the best solution is to destroy it.

Lyme Disease infection happens after 48 hours of the tick being attached. A vigilant pet-owner is going to most likely notice an attached and engorged tick prior to the 48 hour mark. The best way to win this battle is to check for ticks daily during tick season which tends to be April through November. The cold winder months leave ticks dormant, but in warmer climates, Lyme Disease can be a year-round problem. Time and time again, I have read that there is no 100% solution in anti-tick warfare, one simply has to remain vigilant.
If your dog does indeed get bitten by a tick, there are many different methods for removal. One is to light a match behind the swollen tick and have the tick back out of the wound. I have personally done this method and watched the tick explode or pop due to the heat. Ticks burrow into the flesh head first so the best method by far is to get a pair of tweezers and gently extract the tick by grabbing it by its head, as close to the skin as possible. Pull slowly and surely, and don't yank it out like a splinter. You also don't want to molest the tick's body too hard or the body will break off leaving the tick's head attached. If your dog has been bitten and you aren't sure about the time frame of the bite, it is probably wise to schedule a visit to the vet. The symptoms of Lyme Disease are very tricky, a professional opinion and a blood test are probably necessary.

Symptoms of Lyme Disease in many dogs might show up two to five months after infection. Joint pain where the joints are possibly swollen and hot, a poor appetite, fever, and a possible limping are the typical symptoms. The limping might be progressive, initially seeming to be a mild discomfort followed by the leg becoming completely lame. One leg might then behave lame and then the symptoms could shift to a different leg. Over a period of two days, a dog can become completely immobilized as a result of joint pain. Nerve damage, and specifically an adverse affect on the heart can also be a problem. Depression, swollen lymph nodes, and general lethargy are other symptoms to watch out for. The symptoms may seem to disappear and then reappear making a home diagnosis difficult. Extreme cases of Lyme Disease can affect a dog's kidneys, causing renal failure which leads to death.

Treatment has to take place before permanent nerve damage can set in. Lyme Disease is referred to as "The Great Imitator." This is because Lyme Disease symptoms are very similar to several other medical conditions, so the presence of BB has to be determined. Blood testing is the only absolute way to determine the presence of BB.

Interestingly enough, dogs can be exposed to Lyme Disease and may actually fight it off on their own. This can also be determined with blood tests. Sometimes a dog's bloodwork will show positive for BB but the disease is actually under control. In the case of a dog shaking off BB on his own, he may never be completely clear of the BB reading in his bloodwork. However, just because BB shows up in the bloodwork, this doesn't mean that the dog is "infected" or has symptoms of the disease. Recently a specific blood test has been developed that shows the difference between an infection and an immunity to BB.

Treatment for Lyme Disease is with antibiotics for 14-30 days. There can be a relapse after 30 days, and if that's the case, the antibiotics would have to be re-cycled through the dog's system.


The best way to avoid ever having to deal with Lyme Disease is to make sure that your dog doesn't have extended access to areas where ticks may flourish. Fields, meadows, and unkempt grassy areas are notorious for ticks. Ticks like to hang out in high vegetation, and "off the beaten path" in wooded areas.

There are many different over the counter preventative treatments for ticks. Flea collars are good as are products like Spot On by Zodiac which are basically drops for the skin that spread out over the dog's body and prevent ticks from hitching a ride. These types of preventative maintenance are usually good for several weeks to a month before they need to be re-applied. There are also sprays that can be used outside and near where your dog likes to frolic. The key word with all of these methods of anti-tick warfare is "vigilance," especially during tick season.

If you live in an area that is heavily wooded or has a lot of untended grass and vegetation, the chances of ticks are relatively high. A dog owner whose dog frequents such areas should remain vigilant with all forms of anti-tick warfare. It is good to know that not all ticks carry BB, however, there are some serious steps that can be taken to minimize the chances of your dog being bitten. Those few ticks that do carry Lyme Disease, the yearly tick season, the processes of tick removal, specific Lyme Disease symptoms, prescribed treatments, and general tick preventative measures are all pieces of information that a dog owner needs when engaging in full-on anti-tick warfare.

Click here to see the WEST COAST PET SUPPLY selection of Zodiac anti-flea and anti-tick products.


FLEA COLLARS AND TOPICAL SOLUTIONS FOR YOUR DOG

 Flea Collars and Topical Solutions for Your Dog
By: WCPS

West Coast Pet Supply stocks several anti-flea and anti-tick products in our online store for all sizes and most life stages of dogs. Fleas are not only an irritant, but can carry tapeworm eggs that hatch when consumed. Ticks are notorious blood-suckers that can carry Lyme Disease, Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever and ehrlichiosis. Some of the products that we carry handle mosquitoes, lice and biting flies as well.

When shopping for a flea and tick collar, it is best to get a collar that is tailor made for your dog in his particular life stage. There is the Zodiac FleaTrol Flea and Tick Collar for Puppies over 12 weeks old. This product begins killing fleas immediately after being placed around the puppy's neck and reaches maximum flea killing potential within a few days. The collar can last up to five months and water from swimming or baths won't hinder its power. Zodiac FleaTrol Flea and Tick Collar for Large Dogs with necks that are up to 25 inches offers five months of protection for bigger dogs as well. For smaller dogs, Zodiac has the FleaTrol Flea and Tick Collar for Small Dogs with Necks up to 15 inches.

Click here to see the rest of our line of flea collars

Topical solutions for fleas and ticks are applied directly to the dog. Zodiac also makes Spot On which is a flea and tick control product that kills and repels fleas, ticks, and mosquitoes for up to 30 days. Spot On also prevents flea eggs from developing. Spot On has several different sizes available, one for puppies (over six months), toys and miniatures under 15 lbs, one for dogs 16-30 lbs, and one for dogs 30-60 lbs. This application is administered between the dog's shoulder blades and comes with four different thirty-day applicators.

Advantage is a topical product that focuses on fleas, flea larvae and lice. Advantage is waterproof, so the idea of washing the product off with your pet's next bath is nothing to worry about.  Advantage isn't for puppies younger than seven weeks old,. Advantage uses the same application process of three to four spots along the backbone that K9 Advantage uses. Upon application, Advantage starts to kill both fleas and egg-laying fleas within twelve hours.

Frontline PLUS is another waterproof topical application that is applied between your dog's shoulder blades that kills fleas, flea eggs, ticks and chewing lice. This product will control and prevent flea and flea larvae development for up to three months after an application. One application is good for one month with ticks and chewing lice. . Each box comes with three applications, and each application is good for one month. Frontline PLUS is available for puppies (over 7 weeks) and dogs up to 22 lbs, dogs 23-44 lbs, dogs 45-88 lbs, and dogs 89-132 lbs.


K9 Advantix is another waterproof topical solution for pest control. This product kills ticks, fleas, mosquitoes, biting flies, and lice. This product also kills fleas before they can lay their eggs. Larval stages of fleas in the dog's immediate vicinity (sleeping area, etc) are also killed after coming in contact with a K9 Advantix treated dog. This product is applied evenly to three or four spots on the back from the shoulder to the base of the tail. Each pack of K9 Advantix comes with 4 applications. Each application starts working within twelve hours and is good for one month. K9 Advantix isn't to be used on dogs younger than 7 weeks of age. There are several different dog sizes that K9 Advantix is available for: up to 10 lbs, 11-20 lbs, 21-55 lbs, and over 55 lbs.

With these and several other anti-flea and anti-tick products available at the West Coast Pet Supply online store there is surely a product that will meet your pet's needs and keep insect nuisances to a minimum.

Click here to see the rest of our line of topical flea control products

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